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I've spent the last several days compiling whatever I've been able to find on the early Oldsmobile V8s. Much of this information is a compilation of what I've found on the internet. Most of the contributors are DON_WOW, BlownOlds, Yorgatron, Blackrat40, C9, and Dennis Choinski. I'm sorry if I didn't include you, I forgot to. Just wanted to give credit where credit is due. I sure wish I could have talked with some of these old timers.

Oldsmobile isn't around anymore and these old fellows won't be here forever. As the younger generation it is our responsibility to get this information so it may be passed on. If you have anything to add, don't hesitate to send me a message. I always want to learn more. Actually, I would like to have someone post factory bearing clearances for the 303, 324, 371, & 394 if they have the information.

What kind of clearances do you guys run if you're going to be drag racing/circle track/cruising these motors? Is there any sort of clearances you choose for a specific horsepower range, etc? Also, I would like any proven stroker recipes that you guys have. Please include whatever special machine work is needed for the recipe to work. I know a 455 Oldsmobile crank won't cram into a 324 without a lot of work. Hope this consolidated guide will help you fellow Oldsmobile enthusiasts out there. -Mitch Next post will be the guide!

Credits, Introduction 2. Blocks & Pistons 3. Crankshaft & Connecting Rods 4. Systems Layers Rapidshare Library here. Cylinder Heads 5. Intake Manifolds, Exhaust Headers 6.

Camshaft & Valvetrain 7. Ignition & Oiling 8. Engine Build Recipes 9. Vintage Speed Part Suppliers 10.

Transmissions, Starters, Flywheels, & Adapters 11. Magazine Technical Articles 12. Lounge Lizard Session Keygen Free.

Current Known Parts Suppliers (2012) 13. Oldsmobile Differentials 14.

Oil Choice (1) Credits, Introduction 'Everytime you think you've got it figured out, you figure out you were wrong.' -Bill Brosh Much of this information is a compilation of what I've found on the internet. Most of the contributors are DON_WOW, BlownOlds, Yorgatron, Blackrat40, C9, F&J, Blackrat40, Tony Lambardi of Ross Racing Engines, and Dennis Choinski. I'm sorry if I didn't include you, I forgot to. Just wanted to give credit where credit is due. I sure wish I could have talked with some of these old timers. Oldsmobile isn't around anymore and these old fellows won't be here forever.

As the younger generation it is your responsibility to get this information so it may be passed on. -Mitch Early Oldsmobile V8s. The 'Original' Rocket. (2) Blocks & Pistons: CID Bore Stroke 303: 3.750 3.4375 324: 3.875 3.4375 371: 4.000 3.6875 394: 4.125 3.6875 Cast Timeline: 1949-1953: Same castings. 1954: 324 Introduced. 1955: Larger bore. 1956: Larger camshaft.

1957-1958: Larger bore (again), mains, lifters. Deck height got taller by 1/8 inch. 1959-1960: Larger bore (394), mains (again), oil pump drive changed to hex shaft. Deck got taller by 1/4 inch, cam got longer. 1961-62: Oil pump changed. Isotek Ultimate System Setup Discourse. 1963-64: Front cover changed. Stock cast pistons will crack from wrist pin to the skirt under boost application over 8 pounds or so.

Got a rear main leak? Real common leak if you lost or forgot to install the two small cork pieces on each side of rear main cap. Check that out before you mess with rope seal. A rope seal properly installed works fine with no leaks, but if you have to have a split seal use a VICTOR JV604. But if you don't piss rocket fuel i'd still check out the cork on each side of rear main. The older the rope seal, the better. Try to get one that's NOS, yes it may have asbestos in it.